Falaise du Chapeau - Au grand Dam de ces Dames

An easy route and an initiation into friction climbing on the rock of the Chapeau crag.

Approach

From the village of Lavancher, park at the end of the tarmac road. (It is possible to continue to a small parking by a concrete municipal bunker). From here take the footpath which leads to the Buvette de Chapeau. After about 15 mins you pass the start of the path, (down to the right,) to the source, (and slabs) de l’Arveyron. Continue on the Chapeau path which turns back on itself to quickly join the track coming up from the higher parking. Continue up for about 10 mins to an obvious hairpin, before the main path curves around a small valley. A few metres before the hairpin take a faint path on the right (cairns). This crosses a little stream and rises to a wooded flat area with cliffs both above and below, (metal steps and handrails.). A tree with a sign marks the foot of the Oasis area. The route starts up slightly and to the left. The bolts for the routes to the left and right of the “Grand Dam” both start higher up after some scrambling.

Route

4 pitches: L#| 5b | Traverse left, under some vegetation, may be wet, then follow bolts to a tree. L#|5c| L#| 5a| L#| 5b| Follow the lower line of bolts to the left. The upper line is 6c. (It is in the last pitch of the route “Arthur”.)

Descent

Abseil down the route.