Le soleil a rendez-vous avec la lune - Grépon - Mont-Blanc - France

Le soleil a rendez-vous avec la lune

Min / max altitude3482m
Duration17 hours 8 minutes
Main facingE
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required
Lift approach
Gear- 5-6 câblés moyens peuvent être utiles (BD #5 au #10). - Un jeu C4 du #.3 au #3 avec C4 #.5,#.75 et #1 doublés.
Source

Details

See the Piola’s climbing guide.

Route

Some details:

  • P0
    At the end of the season, the bergschrund can be overcome thanks to a fixed rope. Good terrace before L1.
    Crossing: We crossed directly at the same height and climbed right up towards the belay on a spit with a little red sling (easy climbing) the second crossing: 1 spit 10m below the little tower
  • P8
    Belay on a spit on a good terrace
  • P9
    Cross frankly on the right to find 2 spits (aim below the yellow spot) and then a little more to the left is the belay
  • P11
    There is rope which allows one to descend the two meters or to climb up when returning.
  • P23
    After 10m straight, one crosses strongly to the left then dihedral and belay (do not go into the first dihedral meaning do not go straight = difficult and exhausting dihedral)
  • P24
    6a+
  • P25
    Climb very much on the left of the three summit dihedrals

No problem for the rest: good belays 2 spits / coherent route

Descent

Abseils shifted: after having climbed with the fixed rope, one finds the belay from the going up / the first shifted abseil is frankly to the left looking to the ground / after one can see (with difficulty…) that the next belay is on the other side of the little couloir very much on the right, this time on a block (one reaches this belay after almost 50m of abseiling)

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