Min / max altitude3482m
Duration17 hours 8 minutes
Main facingE
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required
Lift approach
Gear- 5-6 câblés moyens peuvent être utiles (BD #5 au #10).
- Un jeu C4 du #.3 au #3 avec C4 #.5,#.75 et #1 doublés.
Details
See the Piola’s climbing guide.
Route
Some details:
- P0
At the end of the season, the bergschrund can be overcome thanks to a fixed rope. Good terrace before L1.
Crossing: We crossed directly at the same height and climbed right up towards the belay on a spit with a little red sling (easy climbing) the second crossing: 1 spit 10m below the little tower - P8
Belay on a spit on a good terrace - P9
Cross frankly on the right to find 2 spits (aim below the yellow spot) and then a little more to the left is the belay - P11
There is rope which allows one to descend the two meters or to climb up when returning. - P23
After 10m straight, one crosses strongly to the left then dihedral and belay (do not go into the first dihedral meaning do not go straight = difficult and exhausting dihedral) - P24
6a+ - P25
Climb very much on the left of the three summit dihedrals
No problem for the rest: good belays 2 spits / coherent route
Descent
Abseils shifted: after having climbed with the fixed rope, one finds the belay from the going up / the first shifted abseil is frankly to the left looking to the ground / after one can see (with difficulty…) that the next belay is on the other side of the little couloir very much on the right, this time on a block (one reaches this belay after almost 50m of abseiling)

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