Profumo proibito

Approach # 1h15

• From the Dalmazzi hut, follow the glacier path. Black water alimentation tube. At a V bifurcation take the lower path.
• After having traversed a small river (possible snowfield at the begin of the season), you will find a faint path to the right.
• Follow the path towards a characteristic isolated rock.
• From the bloc go toward a gully (snowfield at the begin of the season). Large yellow mark.
• Go up the gully, (30m, III). Fixed rope.
• Faint path, but marked with cairns over awkward ground, going to the right (facing the mountain), where the routes going through the Contea face, are ending. Do not go directly up to the obvious cliff where Profumo Proibito sits.
• Around 3000m, the faint path, marked with cairns, comes back horizontally to the left (facing the mountain) and leads to the foot of the cliff.
• Cross a gully by an awkward smooth slab.

2 brand new bolds at the feet of Profumo Proibito. The route starts to the left of Cristallina, (obvious crack on second pitch), under a steep ridge/edge. In August sun arrives at 10h15 at the start.

It is also possible to reach this area by first climbing one of the five pitch routes on the “Plache de la Contea”, just 15mins from the hut. For example “Indicazioni obbligatorie” (5L,6b,5c max) or “Vento Polare” (5L,6a,5c max). Take 2 or 3 mid sized friends. From the summit of the buttress, there is a 15mins walk, (if you are very fast!) to the start of Profumo.

Route

L# | 5c | | Steep section at the end of the pitch.
L# | 6a | | A superb delicate slab with a little, well protected, (two bolts,) overhang, (A0 possible). It is necessary to climb well to the right before traversing to a bolt on the slab. L# | 5c | | Strenuous L# | 5c | | Short and easy with a slab move to reach the belay.
L# | 5c | | Short L# | 6a | 48m | Two amusing overhangs on big holds. L# | 5c | |

Descent

Abseil back down the route or down “Cristallina”, (to the left looking down, steeper but less risk of getting the rope snagged.)