Dorénaz - Tichodrome

About 1km out of Dorenaz on the back road to Martigny, (E of the Rhône). Park next to a nature sign in its own little shelter and at the start of a signposted footpath after passing the two roadside crags of “Dalles du Vaudois”, (excellent one pitch crack climb 5c), and “Graviere”, (lots of quarry debris). The obvious S facing crag that rises up the hillside.

Approach # 20 minutes

Do not take the signposted path but follow instead the path on the left which zig-zags steeply uphill before traversing left to the foot of the climbs between two trees. The name is written on the rock at the start of the route.

Route

L# | 5c+ | 45m | A steep wall of good climbing to a good ledge. Awkward to find the best (easiest) line. L# | 5c | 40m | Crack, then a small overhang with good holds. Up then traverse rightwards to a bolt belay. L# | 5c | | Continue the traverse rightwards, then straight up before moving back left to the belay. L# | 5c | | L# | 6b | | (5c+ with 3 aid points) A short steep section with sparse holds. Good protection.

Descent

Descent on foot is recommended, but it is possible to abseil down the route.

• The route is described as the easiest in the topo des frères Rémy, and is rated with a star as one of the best routes.
• The route is a bit convoluted, taking the easiest line up a steep area of rock. It’s neighbour, “Agier”, to the right is more direct.
• A good introduction to the Gneiss in this area.
• It is often windy in this part of the Rhône valley.
• Autoroute noise.