SE Ridge

Approach

1/ From the petit Cervin station (Klein Matterhorn - environ 3820m),go to the saddle at 3796m and traverse the Breithorn plateau (env. 3800m), curving around to the ENE, to the foot of the S faceof the W peak of the Breithorn. Cross to the E the “Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra” and pass below the Central and East summits of the Breithorn. Contour the glacier basin, passing below the Roccia Nera. Cross a spur and pass below the Rossi Volante bivouac. Pass beneath the Schwarztor and go around the foot of the SW ridge to traverse under the S face of Pollux and so to the Zwillingsjoch (3845m)

2/ From the Guide de Ayas hut, Go NE up the easy angled slope to the col di Verra / Zwillingsjoch (3848m), between Castor et Pollux. Th SE ridge starts at this col.

Route# SE Arête

From the col, Get to the lowest point of the SE ridge. Follow its crest (vague path) on broken rocks to a pinnacle. Turn this on the left, (or right) to regain the crest on better rock. Some slab climbing (III) just before you reach snow again. Bypass a rock barrier by snow on the right and then follow the easy snow ridge to the summit.

Descent

By the same route Variant: It is possible to do a traverse by descending the SW ridge.