Les Chéserys - Voie Blanche

An enjoyable, well equipped route.

Approach # 50mins

From the car parking at Trelechamp take the Chéserys path which leads to Lac Blanc via l’Aiguillette d’Argentière. After about an hour and when the path climbs up in rounded steps, take a faint path on the right to join the path along the base of the cliff. The route takes a line on the left hand end of the climbing area, to the right of a gully which cuts the full height of the cliff. It starts on a large slab with several bolted lines, taking the second line from the left.

There are several starts possible on this slab to join the large ledge leading diagonally leftwards to the second belay. The first three pitches of « Un Pere Noel pour Lucy » to the left of the classic start is to be recommended.

Route

L#| 5a| Straight into the difficulties with a delicate slab. Make sure the rubber of your shoes is warmed up! L#|3c| Easy ramp to rising leftwards with a little steep section of 3c at mid length.

Alternative start; First three pitches of “Pere Noel pour Lucy”

Follow the line of bolts leading to the left of the normal start: L#1| 5a| Up the slab diagonally leftwards. L#| 5c | Keep trending up and leftwards. L#| 5b | Short section followed by the ramp and the belay at the top of the “normal” pitch 2. The belay for the top two pitches of “Un Pere Noel pour Lucy (6a and 6a) is further left.

L#| 5b| A short pitch with a little wall that gets steeper. Gain the belay by a short traverse to the right. L#| 5a| Start by a rising traverse to the right. (Possible to do pitches 3 and 4 in one long pitch, attention rope drag.) L#| 5c| An easy ramp rising rightwards to a short steep section and the top of the route.

Descent

In three abseils. Also possible in two with a 60m+ rope plus a bit of easy down climbing.

The top part of pitch 5 is often wet if there is a melting snowpatch on the slopes above the route.