Goulotte Afanassieff - Bodin - Mont Blanc du Tacul - Mont-Blanc - France

Goulotte Afanassieff - Bodin

Min / max altitude3450m / 4075m
Duration13 hours 28 minutes
Main facingNW
Route typeLoop
Glacier gear required
Gear- 7/8 broches, quelques friends jusqu'au 1 en camalots. - Jeu de coinceurs (plutôt des petits). Sangles 4/5.
Source

Details

Approach

2h to 2h30 from the Aiguille du Midi

Go up the normal route (N face) of the Mont Blanc du Tacul to around 3800 m (+/- 100m depending on the seracs.) Make a long contouring traverse to the W then descend finding the best and least steep line to a little col at 3580m. (Make sure your altimetre is properly regulated!) Beware, menacing seracs. The col is identified by a little cairn. From the col descend the obvious couloir at 40º, (easy if there is snow,) until the bottom, about 120m.

Route

4 to 6h from the bergschrund.

Traverse to the left for several dozen metres to spot a 20m ramp ascending to the right (3c ou M3+) which gives access to the gully. Climb the long gully for 500m. Three short steps: grade 4 ice and 50/55° on snow.
At the top you reach the ridge on the left which is followed to the shoulder of the Tacul.

Descent

Join the normal route for the Tacul.

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