79 Gabarrou route

Approach

From the refuge, descend slightly to get onto the Tour glacier and go across it towards the Migot spur, (possible if the glacier is well filled, if not follow the route towards the Col du Tour, then at about 3200m curve around to the foot of the Migot Spur). The route starts at the foot of the next spur to the right, looking up.

Route

Start where best at the lowest point of the NE spur, to the right of the Migot Spur. (The Voie Gabarrou 1977 is just to the left,). It is a mixed route, so the difficulties vary according to the conditions.

At mid height, you cross the voie Escarra and traverse to rightwards to reach a narrow gully/runnel (80/85° for two, short sections)) then follow, either a snow/ice/rock ridge, or easy runnels/gullies to the summit ridge.

Descent # 2-3h

From the summit, climb down the narrow W ridge to a rocky saddle. To the right is a nice snow gully which you descend, staying mostly on the right, (max 45º, do not go into the large gully on the left, which is steep and overhangs the Argentière side.) Descend the snow slopes obliquely rightwards to come back towards the Tour bowl at a rocky/snowy saddle.

There are two choices: 1. Follow the rocky saddle towards the Aiguille Adams Reilly by keeping a little to the right. At the bottom of the saddle a little, steeper section leads to the start of the abseils (20m). The first abseil is on the right bank of an enclosed gully. The second abseil is on the left side of the exit of the gully, (descend this second abseil slightly obliquely to the right.)
You gain a snow slope which leads to a snowy saddle between the Chardonnet and the Aiguille Adams Reilly. Follow the shoulder glacier, (initially on the left.) 2. From the rocky saddle go obliquely to the right on a rocky/snowy slope. At the foot of the slope, a ledge (cairn) leads horizontally leftwards to a little suspended snowfield. Cross this snowfield, keeping slightly to the left to find the first abseil point, (two pegs, slings). One abseil of 50m, (steep start) brings one to an enclosed gully. Another abseil of 50m (slings on the right bank) brings one to a large block/pillar on the right bank, where there is a steep snow slope under the snowy saddle between the Chardonnet and the Aiguille Adams Reilly. Descend the slope keeping to the rocks on the right, (bergschrund crossed on the right, flake belays, sling in place if one chooses to abseil.)

After the bergschrund the two descent routes rejoin. Descend towards the Tour glacier, (beware, lots of large crevasses.) Depending on the state of the glacier, cross it directly towards the Albert 1er hut or gain the foot of the Col du Passon, to cross the glacier lower down where there are fewer crevasses.