La Fory - Les Singes

Approach

From Martigny, take the Grand St-Bernard road past Bovernier, then a signpost « Bienvenue » and park 500m further on, on the right next to some rubbish bins (and 200m before the tunnels.) Cross the road and railway, (there is a little passage in the barricade that holds the earth back above the railway.) Take a path which zig zags uphill, to a dike and go along this to the right. At the end of the dike follow a faint path, (red paint marks and cairns) for about 20mins to the start of the route The name of the route is marked in red on the rock.

Route 3h

All the belays are equipped with 2 non-linked bolts

A series of slabs and ridges separated by « alpine gardens », (butterflies, lizards etc.) L1 5a After several metres the route goes rightwards L2 5b Continue to traverse right a slab move after a jammed friend. L3 4a Follow the crest of the ridge L4 4a (Only one move of 4a, rest III) Very short pitch along the ridge L5 5b The crux. Effort is need to reach the first bolt L6 4a Follow the ridge then descend slightly for 3 metres to the belay. L7 4c Follow the easy angled corner to gain a comfortable terrace, belay. L8 4a Follow the ridge on its right side. (The left side is also possible but it is walking.) L9 4a A long slab with lot of holds. The last three pitches are mossy.

Descent 20 mins

Continue upward for about 50m then follow the faint path, (red paint marks and cairns) back to the start of the route. The path firstly crosses a large scree slope then through the forest on a dusty track.

• Overgraded in the Roduit guidebook of 2000

• With a 60m rope and 14 quickdraws, it is possible to link pitches, (in particular L3-L4, L6-L7, L8-L9).

• Possible to move together on certain pitches, in particular, L3 and L4.

• Up to pitch 4, one can escape by walking off to the left and joining the descent path.

• Good training route for leading multipitch

• Dries quickly