Cristallina

Approach # 1h

From the Dalmazzi hut, follow the glacier path until a cairn just before the water source for the hut, go up a faint path towards a characteristic isolated rock, above which there is a gully marked with a cairn. Go up the gully, (20m, III), follow a path, faint but marked with cairns over awkward ground. Do not go directly up to the obvious cliff where the routes are but go to the right to comeback almost horizontally leftwards to the foot of the cliff. Cross a gully by an awkward, smooth slab to the start of the routes. The line of Cristallina is easily identified by the characteristic crack of pitch 2.

Route

L# | 5c | 20m | (1 bolt) Start at a corner crack slanting to the right followed by a short traverse to the right which leads to the belay (N.B. the original first pitch is 6c+, not very homogenous with the rest of the route.) L# | 6a+ | 45m | (3 bolts) Superb sustained pitch up the crack. L# | 5c | | (1 bolt) Follow the corner then the crack, less difficult because it is less steep. L# | 6b | | (well bolted) Climb the wide slanting crack with some beautiful balance moves L# | 5c | | L# | 6a | |

Descent

Abseil down the route.