NE face

Approach

From La Fouly go up the path towards the cabane de l’A Neuve. At about 2200m altitude go westwards to get onto the A Neuve glacier and go to the foot of the spur at 2261m coming down from the col d’Argentière.

Route

Make a rising traverse to the SW to gain the foot of the NE face. Climb the lower part then traverse diagonally leftwards before going straight up to reach the summit.

Descent #(on foot to the Argentière Glacier)

Follow the ridge to the Amone gap, often snow, sometimes mixed. From the gap take the SW gully, (some guidebooks describe a secondary gully which leads to the SW gully, this is not recommended as the rock is very poor.) Climb down the gully, with the possibility to make some abseils. There are some rings in place but if you foresee abseiling make sure you bring extra slings etc.