Burnier - Vogler - Aiguille du Midi - Mont-Blanc - France

Burnier - Vogler

Min / max altitude3350m / 3842m
Duration5 hours 40 minutes
Main facingNW
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required
GearRappels de 60m
Source

Details

Approach

From the Aiguille du Midi, walk round to the beginning of the Cosmiques ridge and go up the start of the ridge. Make 6 abseils, (equipped,) down the NW face. The 1st abseil is from 2 bolts in a little pinnacle to the left of a snowy saddle, before the first summit of the ridge.
It is also possible to get to the foot of the route by abseiling from the bridge at the Aig du Midi station. The bolt hangers from the starting belay have been removed. There are still 3 older bolts and a sling with a maillon just above to the left.

Route

L# | 60 to 70°, 60m (bolt belay on the right) L# | 5m at 80° then 60°, 50m (belay on the left, 3 pegs) L# | Diagonally to the right, 65°, 60m L# | Snow, belay on the right, two bolts L# | Snow, belay on 2 bolts in a rock in the middle of the gully. Easier exit possible to the left. L# | To the right, mixed M4, 60m. Belay to the left on the ridge, 2 pegs. The first abseil point is on the right.

Descent

Either follow the Cosmiques Ridge to the Aiguille du Midi or go back down the ridge to the Abri Simond.

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