S-ridge

Approach # 20 min

From the hut follow the yellow markings near the water pipe. Do not go towards the moraine but follow one of the many paths up through the boulders, to reach to foot of the face (to the E of the Aiguille du Refuge). Start at a crack at the left end of the face , directly beneath a little overhang. (tatty sling at 5m)

Route

L# | 25m | 5c A crack then a traverse right on undercuts, (5b) to an awkward shallow groove, 1 peg. Belay on a ledge L# | 25m | 5a Traverse 5m to the left then climb a crack, 5a, belay on a terrace under a roof L# | 35m | 4c Go 2m to the right then straight up, (passing to the right of the overhang), belay on a ledge L# | 45m | 3 Easy steps, belay just below the ridge. L# | 10m | 3 Easy up to a ledge with 2 bolts, junction with the route “Un éclat de rire” L# | 45m | 5c Start on the right then back to gain the cracks in the slab, peg visible at 5m. Bolt belay on a ledge. (Ignore possible belay at mid height). L# | 20m | 5a Up a crack to a flake and descend a wide crack on the other side to a gap L# | 20m | 4a Climb up to the flake, (“râteau de chèvre”), traverse this to get behind it and descend round a corner to a ledge and abseil point.

Descent # 30 min

• Abseil 22m on the N side to a gap, then by a little gully before traversing left along ledges on the side facing the Améthystes to regain the foot of the face.
• Escape possible from the 5th or 6th belay by 3 or 4 abseils down the E face, then ledges. This brings you down, 10m to the right of the start.