NW couloir and W ridge

Approach # 2-3h

From the Couvercle hut, follow the faint path and cairns to the E to reach the Talèfre glacier. Cross two moraines on a flattish area and go straight towards the start, keeping a large area of crevasses to your left.

Route # 5-6h

Cross the bergschrund to reach the foot of the couloir, 45/50° for 200m, the true left bank is exposed to rock fall from mixed ground which gets the sun first thing. The slope steepens to 55° under the middle bulge, which you overcome by going diagonally to the left to reach a less sustained slope, 45/50° for 200m at the side of the Aiguille de Talèfre cliff. By a last steep step, 55/60° for 60m,) you reach the Col des Aiguilles de Talèfre (3h to 4h). An escape is possible on the S side (45° for 200m then easy slopes to the Leschaux hut). Climb the ridge on broken rocks, you can avoid a tower by going around on the Talèfre (left) side, then a last snow crest leads to the SW summit. The NW summit, (highest point) is reached by a short ridge. (2h)

Descent # 2-3h

From the SW summit, go down the S ridge towards the Aiguille de l’Eboulement (snowy plateau) but after only a short distance, on the right, go into a SW then W couloir at 45/50° (recommended to abseil), then snow slopes, (glacier) leading in the direction of the Leschaux hut. Keep going to the right, until a rock island, which one can pass either on the right or the left. Traverse a moraine to the right to reach a grassy slope which you descend while keeping a large ravine to your left, and reach the traverse (balcony) path, (ladders) which leads back to the hut