Cogne - Valnontey - Valmiana - Cogne - Valnontey - Gran Paradiso - Italy

Cogne - Valnontey - Valmiana

Min / max altitude1700m / 1800m
Duration1 day
Main facingSW
Route typeReturn the same way
Gear2×60 m rope
Source

Details

Approach: 50min

From Cogne drive to the parking at the end of the Valnontey village. From here follow the climber’s track on the true right bank for 1.5kms and cross the river at the third bridge,(not counting the one in the village,) signposted “Il Senterio dei Troll”. There are two ice waterfalls. It is the one on the left which is longer, more constricted and starts between two large boulders. The longer one on the left is « Sentiero del Troll » (II.3). The one on the right is Valmania

Route.

L# | | A very nice wall of about 25m at 80°, reaching 85° at the exit L# | | Linking pitch with short bulges, 55m. L# | | A wall at 75° followed by a slope at 60°, 55m. L# | | A wall at 75°/80°, narrowing to a runnel at the top, 55m. L# | | Ice runnel at 70° max. Great pitch.

All belays are bolted with chains.

Descent

Either make 5 abseils down the route or make 1 abseil then descend, always going to the left, down steep, grassy slopes with several larch trees.

The route gets the sun from early in the day. Different types of pitches, broad walls and thin ice runnels.

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