Cogne - Valeille - Cascade de Lillaz

A large frozen river, making for a great icefall. A much visited beauty spot in summer: The 3 grading is for the easiest line.

Approach 15mins

From Cogne, cross the bridge and park at the entrance to the village. Walk through the village, turning left at a little bar to the Geological park and a small parking, (for locals only). Follow the signposts “Cascade de Lillaz” . A flat walk of 10mins.

Route

L1 45m Three possibilities:

• To the left : 60°-75°.

• In the centre : a short vertical section.

• To the right : 70° + some sections at 85° (a belay part way up on a rock just before the exit.) Variant L1’ : It is possible to climb the left-hand icefall which is not difficult and which is well equipped. Several short bulges of 3-4m. L2 15m at 70°. Belay on the right under the bridge or further up on the left. Climb together, past two enclosed flat areas for 150m, until the foot of the next ice bulge.

L3 10m at 80°, then 20m : Lots of possibilities more or less difficult

From here there are two lines. Since 2009, in agreement with the local guides and the water company, the waterfall has been rerouted to prevent climbers getting flooded by the opening of the dam. It is strongly advised not to continue up the righthand line unless the left hand line is not properly formed

L4 et L5 : Nice ice slope, made artificially by the rerouting the flow of the water. Belay on the right with a tree then a bolt.

Right hand variant, Climb the right hand side of the ice fall close to a bolt belay, or further back on a tree, 55m. Climb the easier continuation on the left to a tree belay.

Descent

Continue upwards to the left to join the main path and follow this to the left (looking upwards) which leads all the way down to the car parking. If you have left equipment at the foot of the climb it is neccesary to break of leftwards, (looking downwards), to cross the bridge you walked under after pitch 2.

Very popular, probably should be avoided most weekends. The pitch 3 bowl is a great place to practice technique.