La diagonale - Pointe de Floray - Chablais - France

La diagonale

Min / max altitude1850m / 2075m
Duration3 hours 36 minutes
Main facingSE
Route typeLoop
GearCuerda 2×50 m 10 a 12 cintas expres alguna cinta un juego de friends varaiados(pequenos a grandes, hasta el n.o2 Camalot)
Source

Details

Approach # 45mins from Chalets de Bise (1506m)

Take the left road towards Col de Bise and then follow the left path at the fork (1535m) towards Col de Floray. The line is clear from a distance. Approach either straight (steep through high grass) or better further from the left.

Climb

New gradings proposed - the old (4b,3,4b,5b,5c,5c,3+) are extremely tough/misleading, and some relays are missing (and not needed).

L# | 5b | 50m | Small traverse leftwards leads to a completely vertical crack (two bolts visible). Then start going a bit to the right - the route is pretty clear. L# | 5a | 25m | Go up then slightly right to find a bolt. Short traverse right and then up to a perfect diagonal ledge (do not traverse too far right - there is a bolt from another route) L# | 5c/6a | 40m | Follow the diagonal ledge (some bolts). At some passages you may need to get to the exterior of the ledge (airy). L# | 6a 10m and then 3 for another 30m | 40m | Some nice moves lead into the offwidth (1 piton completely hidden in the grass). Then there is a bolt - some athletic movements to overcome the bump. Go right and either find two pitons (are they still there?) or exit on the top of a tower and belay from there. L# | 3/4 | 45m | Easy climbing to the top.

Descent

Either go left to Col Floray (shorter) or right to the top of Pointe de Pavis and down to Col de Bise.

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