S Face (standard ascent) from Val Ferret italien

Approach

Go to the Dolent (Cesare Fiorio) Bivouac hut either from the Italian (Arp Nouva) or the Swiss, (La Fouly), Val Ferret. (Click on link in header section for details.)

Route

From above the bivouac there are numerous cairns and possibilities going up to the left, (difficult to find the best line by head torch) leading to the end of the true left bank of the glacier. Follow this then traverse to the left to go up a steeper section (40º) which leads to a bergschrund, which becomes harder to cross as the season progresses. Once crossed climb up to a rock buttress. This section faces south and is steep. It can very quickly become hard ice. There remains about 300m of easy climbing on rotten rock, then better rock along the ridge to the summit. At the beginning of the season it is a snow route, mainly traversing with sections up to 40° or more.

Descent

By the same way, taking care as it is a long, steep and exposed slope. Rocks can provide running belays.