NW ridge (Plemenice route)

Access points

• Vrata valley (N, 1015m)
• Zadnjica valley (S, 700m)

Approach

Reach the Luknja pass (check the associated routes).

Ascent ## approx. 4h

The crux is the beginning of the ridge, starting eastwards, just above the Luknja pass. Eventually put on the harness for self-belaying. The ridge is vertical from the start and though well secured with cables and metal pegs, a good gym session cannot be avoided. Further up, the slope softens somewhat and cables are rarer, but the climb still stays airy and exposed. After a climb of approx. 500m and after descending into a notch, one reaches the large karstic plateau Plemenice below the W side of the summit edifice of Triglav (to the left, we see the upper edge of the N face, including the Sphinx / Sfinga). The markings take us across the plateau towards the SE (rather to the right) finally hitting into the S ridge pillar where we join the S ridge route coming from the right, from the Koča na Doliču mountain hut. Above the scree, the beginning is the crux, then a red gully (cables) leads to the Triglav Notch : Triglavska Škrbina, 2659m (here a route from the Dom Planika mountain hut comes in from the right) after which the route to the summit remains steep but always secured.

Descent

Either by one of the E ridge routes towards the mountain huts Triglavski Dom or Dom Planika, or by the S ridge route towards the Koča na Doliču mountain hut. One can of course also do a round trip (1 day).