Pilier central de gauche

Attack the piller in the centre and then climb shattered rock right and up above the Bergschrund towards the couloir which seperates the two pillers. Climb an easy zone up and slightly right to an obvious ramp which is followed L to rejoin the crest on the L under a steep step with obvious ‘beak’ shaped overhang. Gain this step by climbing a few meters direct and then traversing L below the beak on a smooth slab (V), then force a short overhang direct (V+), one pitch. Above is an easy section (III) which is followed obliquely right until somewhat hidden crack/couloir system leads back Lwards to the crest. Follow this to a little breche (IV+). A narrow couloir on the L flanc which is steep sided/deep (visisble from afar) is followed back R to the crest and another small breche, then continue on the R flanc on steeper slab/broken terrain (IV+) max. This now opens up into a part of the face orientated N which must be climbed slightly R to rejoin the crest at the grey tower. Either: 1. In snowy conditions climb couloirs and ramps (icey) in the direction of the grey tower and regain the crest just under the tower itself. 2. Or climb a little face as far right as possible to keep to dry and less shattered rock to reach the crest. From here there are 3 gendarmes which must be traverse on L flanc then R. (Both cases IV and IV+ exposed and BAD! Rock) From underneath the grey tower traverse R on a ledge which narrows and then continue traversing R and slightly up until you gain the foot of a big chimney which scars the W face. Climb this chimney (corneer/deidre obvious to start 1 piton) by 2 pitches. Then traverse R on small ledges and then slabs to gain the summit of the grey tower (V for chimney and IV for crest) From here climb on the R flanc towards the next steepening, cross a slight couloir to gain a crack which leads to a small niche (IV+ peg and rope in niche) which is exited R on small ledges/flakes to gain the next couloir which leads back L to the crest. The ridge is now almost horizontal and thin/delicate with creaky/suspect rocky blocks. Climb on the R then up and over the first gendarme/pinnacle, then on the L flanc and up and over the second gendarme/pinnacle and follow the thin arete to the breche below the last steepening where there is a jammed block in the breche. From here traverse L for a little way (@10m) to a deep crack which (with a good boot/thigh stuck in it) leads up and back to the crest and easier climbing which follows. (V) Follow the easier and more solid ridge which follows to the snow crest and summit. (@300m)