Triangle du Tacul - German Gully Direct - Triangle du Tacul - Mont-Blanc - France
Triangle du Tacul - German Gully Direct

Triangle du Tacul - German Gully Direct

Min / max altitude3500m / 3970m
Duration1 day
Main facingN
Route typeLoop
Glacier gear required
Gear* 5 ice screws * 3 mid-size cams * 3 slings
Source

Details

Direct (drytool) variation of the German Gully.

The route follows the German Gully but splits to the left (direct) in the third pitch.

L# | 60°/AI2 | 60m | Easy snow/ice slope to the beginning of the German Gully (two possible belays). L# | 60°/M4 | 60m | Enjoyable mixed gully. Belay at the exit of rock section. L# | 60°/AI2 | 40m | Easy snow field slightly to the left and then direct (the German Gully goes firstly straight and then right around a distinct boulder). Belay at the end of snow field on a rock. L# | 85-90°/M5+ | 40m | Two steps of M4 then 10m easy snow field to reach a vertical rock section. Then climb 20m vertical sustained drytool M5+ with difficult left foot steps. There are two in-situ slings in the upper part of the difficult section. Then easy finish, 10m of M3, to reach a belay on a rock.

You can abseil down from here or continue up to the top of the Triangle (possibly rejoin the upper part of the normal variant of the German Gully).

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