Guy Anne "L'insolite"

Approach

The start is at the foot of the first Pointe des Nantillons, which you reach from the hut by contouring, (slightly downward at first to avoid some slabs,) do not walk under the seracs! The approach does not cross a glacier so crampons are often not necessary. The route begins at the extreme left, not far from a little ice wall, which bars access to the Envers de Blatiere glacier. Knotted rope in-situ.

Route 5 to 6 h

Use the knotted rope or alternatively L0 : 20m 5c short corner after 10m sloping from right to left, belay on a bolt and nuts, (the bolt, used for the knotted rope, is broken.)

L#| 5b| 40m| Climb some corners and cracks to pass by some terraces to a belay in the line of a vertical crack and 5m from an obvious corner. (Good view of the pillar of « Amazonia » to the right. L#| 6a+| 40m| A steep crack, with good holds and possible to protect, difficult slab move to the left(bolt.) A memorable pitch . L#| 6a/6a+| 40m| A crack slanting to the left for 20m, protectable with little friends and wires, then a crack straight up (bolt.) L#| 5c| 40m| Climb the corners and cracks tending slightly rightwards, then a slab move to the left. L#~ The rest of the line is now pretty direct: L#| 6a| 35m| Slabs and cracks L#| 6a| 40m| Slabs and cracks L#| 6a| 35m| Difficult crack move, belay well to the right. L#| 5c| 35m| L#| 6a+| 35m| Weave up the knobbly slab then flakes, (to be turned on the left.) L#| 6a+| 40m| Delicate corner then a knobbly slab to the right, superb. L#| 6a| 40m| Crack then traverse a slab to the left (bolt,) then again a crack and leftwards traverse to finish up a superb slab and the left-hand “Pointe” (unlike the “traditional” Guy-Anne and Bienvenue au Georges V.)

Descent 1h30

Abseil down the route, (taking care with the rope jamming, lots of flakes and not very steep.)