Le 1er Pilier + Mauvaise Vue

Approach # 1h

From the Col de la Colombière, follow the path towards the Lac de Peyre, then at the level of a scree slope, (after about 30 or 40mins, cairn,) go to the right towards the 1st Pillar passing behind an obvious large boulder and crossing a large scree slope on a faint path with a few cairns.

Route

1st Pillar (150m) Starts down on the right at the foot of the pillar. L1 : 4c, 35m, nice slab L2 : 5c, 35m, 5m traverse towards the pillar, then a very nice, vertical and varied pitch. L3 : 3c, 10m, Short pitch L4 : 5c, 40m, Firstly, 20m of easy but unstable ground, then a steep slab, (1 move of 5c) followed by a corner, (easier, but watch out for rope drag.) The first in-situ gear is a peg which gives protection for a horizontal traverse. L5 : 5b, 30m, Vertical corner with a little rock step to exit. The first bolt is difficult to see and is slightly to the left in some yellow rock.

“Mauvaise vue” Starts slightly higher up on the left. L1 : 5a, 35m, easy slab L2 : 5c, 35m, easy slab followed by a 20m, magnificent, vertical rock band.

Descent

Abseil back down the route. Pitches 3 and 2 go in one abseil for “1er Pilier”. One abseil for “Mauvaise Vue”.