Grassen - Sudflank Verschneidung

Great alpine outing in solid rock. A rack of cams and set of nuts are required, no bolts. Approach via Biwak am Grassen or Sustlihütte.

Approche (1) From Biwak am Grassen: From the biwak go South along the Wendengletscher. Descent and walk around the west flank of the Grassen. Continue towards the Grassenjoch (stay on the right to avoid crevasses). At around 2700m the verscheidung is clearly visible.

(2) From Sustlihütte. Follow the alpine markings to the Grassenjoch. Descend the Grassenjoch for 50 meters. At around 2700m the verscheidung is clearly visible.

Voie Cross the bergschrund on the left of the verscheidung, first belay.

Verschneidung (images for more details) * Pitch 1 (40m, 4b) Traverse the block and go straight up trough the chimney till a ledge. Build a belay on your right. * Pitch 2 (15m, 3b) Straight up trough a chimney till a ledge. Build a belay on your right. * Pitch 3 (25m, 4b) Follow the steep face, straight up. The last part is easy climbing but finding placements is harder. Belay in some horizontal cracks. * Pitch 4 (10m, 3a) Easy climbing till a large grassy ledge on the end of the verscheidung. Plenty options for belays.

Traverse first grade rock till you arrive at the Grassen Westgrat, continue along the Westgrat (2a) to the top of the Grassen.

Descente Descent the normal route to the Sustlihütte or continue to the Grassenbiwak par voie normale.

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