Cogne - Valnontey - Patri

Approach

Follow the footpath which runs parallel to the ski de fond track to the end of the loop. From here take the little path on the left just before the bridge following the true right bank of the river. (Do not take the path to the Money hut.) Once you have spotted the route, take the best line up to it. There are signposts!

Route

L#1 | 50m, 70-80º Very broad, giving lots of possibilities. There is a belay with two pegs at a rock pinnacle on the right, looking upwards. On the left looking upwards there is hanging belay in a cave, (1 bolt with long sling), or, with a 60m rope, you can go directly to the top of pitch 2.

Alternative start: Candelino di Patri (WI4/5). Not formed very often, this is a 10 to 15m 90° pillar, starting under the overhanging rock left of Patri normal route. You can abseil on an Abalakov or continue to L3 of Patri normal route via an easy snow gully, ending in the snowfield of L3.

L#2 | 15m, 90º A short, vertical section, belay on the right, bolts. L#3 | Easy angled slope then a 15m vertical section. which can be avoided on the right by a slope of snow/soft ice. Belay on bolts at a rock in the middle. L#4 | Go up (20m)to the next steep section, which is 70º for 30m (Belay on bolts at a rock in the middle of another open area.

You arrive at the final basin, where the gully divides in two.

Left hand Branch: (Patri de Gauche) 4 L5: 40m, 80°, Sustained. 2 bolt belays on the left, 5m apart. In the middle there is an abseil point from a rock pinnacle, (slings.) L6: 40m, Short vertical section leads to an intermediary belay, uncomfortable, best to continue up the narrow gully, good climbing.

Right hand branch: (Patri de Droite) 4+ L5: 20m, 70°, Rock belay on the right. L6: 50m, 80-85°,very sustained Sometimes a nice, vertical, free standing column allows one to elegantly pass to the left, (5-5+).

Descent

Abseil the top two pitches then walk down bowl on the true right bank of the gully.

The top of the gully gets the sun by the beginning of the afternoon, (faces W). Excellent gully, broad and varied, giving several alternative lines. One of the most popular climbs in Cogne!