La Grave - Malaval versant S - Caturgeas – Lower section

A remarquably homogeneous and long ice climb. It is one of the most interesting and popular ice-falls in La Grave. The WI3+ grade is given for the easiest way up. Choosing the steepest walls would take the grade to WI4.

Approach

Inexistant! In fact, it can be funny to count it in seconds: 30? 35? It really depends on which side of the car you were sitting. The ice-fall flows over the smaller of the two tunnels, 50m from the parking space.

Itinéraire

The climb is remarkably homogeneous, with only 2 flatter (and usually snowy) sections. On average, the ice is at 70-75°. There are numerous bolted belays on both sides of the ice-fall, usually every 30m.

After some 5-6 pitches, the ice-fall is divided into two branches by an overhanging rock pillar. The usual and easiest way up is on the left of the pillar.

The last bolted belay lies above a 40m wall, above the second snow patch (the climb totals 250m from its base).

Descent

Abseil down the ice-fall. Below the first snow patch, you can abseil down the Martinez goulotte-chimney] that is somwhat more protected from avalanches. The first abseil station is on the rock face below the cement wall and with a 60m rope you can reach the base of the climb in only one abseil.

• Caturgeas is very exposed to avalanches. Beware of snow conditions and the weather on the upper part of the slopes.

• The upper section of Caturgeas is a goulotte that leads to the top of the Emparis plateau. Going all the way is a true mountaineering endeavour: Caturgeas - parcours intégral].