Aiguilles Dorées - Promontoire S - sibaschlafer

Approach

• since the plateau du Trient, go throw the window of Saleina y de on e of Suzanne. 2h since the hut of Trient, 3h since the one of d’Orny
• since the bivac des Dorées, go down forward the Wand tuen around the promontoire.
• The final approach to the base of the wall is full of big, loose rocks and sand. Danger of rockfall. It may be easier to approach the base of the wall further to the north-west, and then follow to rockface to the beginning of this route.

Way

This route is located in a flat wall on the SW face of the promontoire. It is identified by a characteristic pillar starting on a big ledge half way up the wall and ending below the top of the wall with a tilted/broken tip (refer to the attached photos). This pillar is not visible from the ground directly below. The route begins where short, bent crack reaches the base of the wall right of a small ledge. A bolt 1.5m above the ground marks the start.

L# | 6a+? | | Following the bolt placements, climb along a crack leading towards the right past a horizontal ledge spanning the entire face. Step a little to the right. The anchor is located at a crack that bends to the left, to the right of a dominant horizontal crack. L# | 6b? | | Continue along the bolt placements, following another crack and passing a big flake. The anchor is above this flake feature on the ledge at the base of the characteristic pillar with the broken tip. L# | 4b? | | Traverse on the big ledge to the left to the next anchor where several parallel vertical cracks reach the ledge. There is one bolt close to the beginning. L# | 7a | | Follow the bolts along some vertical cracks. About half way into the pitch start aiming a little more to the left towards a dihedral below a roof. There is the anchor. L# | 6c+ | | Climb up the dihedral, passing the first roof to the left into another dihedral and then onto some vertical cracks (follow the bolts) to the next anchor. L# | | |

Way down

upsailing