Aiguille d'Entrèves - W Face - Salluard Route

Approach

Follow this approach] until you find yourself before Face W of Aiguille d’Entrèves. Approach the face in its middle, below the summit. The route follows a line of weaknesses to the left of characteristic indentation in the face. (1h)

Route

A short L0 pitch (10 m): climb a finger crack ascending diagonally to the right (3 m, 5a), then traverse to the left into the corner and climb onto the terrace where R0 is located (2 pitons connected with a rope).

L# | 5a | 35 m | Climb a short wall (2 pitons) and then a vertical crack (some old pitons), come out onto an easy rampe ascending to the right (4a). Traverse to the right to R1 (three pegs and a nut connected by slings). L# | 5a | 25 m | Climb a short overhang protected by a piton, then easy corner, traverse to the left into an easy crack. Sketchy R# on a terrace (slings around a block with an old piton) L# | 5a | 30 m | Nice hand to fist crack. R3 on a terrace. (Anchor of the neighboring route “Reve d’Entreves 3 m higher on the right) L# | 5a | 30 m | Follow the flakes ascending to the left (one piton), then a short crack to the crest. Make a belay on a sling around a block. L# | 4a | 10 m | Follow the ridge to the rappel station of Reve d’Entreves (slings visible).

Descent

4 rappels along the Reve d’Entreves line. First rappel 25 m, second rappel 25 m, third rappel 40 m (skip one belay station). Fourth rappel 50 diagonally to the attack. All rappel stations are bolted, with two bolts and a rappel ring.

The rock is solid. The route protects well. Most hard moves are protected by old pitons (not all in perfect state). The face takes sun around 1pm in the summer.