Grande Ciamarella normal French route - Grande Petite Ciamarella traverse

Day 1 : Climb to the Évettes refuge

After the Ecot parking lot (2020m) take the well marked way which goes up the S slope via large bends. After going up these large avalanche slopes a large traverse to the left leads you to a small herbish flat spot. The way is divided into 2, a path traverses and easily climbs to the refuge while the second directly climbs the slope above, reaching a broad dale and to the refuge via a traverse to the E. From Ecot to the refuge takes 1h15 to 2h00.

Tonini Pass traverse

Day 2 : Go back down the flat spot under the Refuge and head for the Évettes glacier. Once on the glacier go up the first slope often in ice (25°) then traverse diagonally to the left (towards the right bank of the glacier) to avoid a slightly threatening serac area. Via snow slopes at 30° it is easy to reach the higher dish of the glacier. Head SE for the glacier which climbs to the Tonini pass just to the left of the summit of Petite Ciamarella. Go up the slope which recovers gradually until approximately 45° under the Tonini Pass. Go past the pass and traverse completely E until the foot of Ciamarella Pass. From the refuge to the start takes 1h30 to 2h00.

Normal Grande Ciamarella route

A snow gully in line with the Ciamarella pass makes it possible to reach the ridge. After a not very steep snowy slope cross a very short mixed or rocky section (II). You then hit a snow gully at approximately 45° which emerges at the Ciamarella pass. From the pass follow the mixed ridge, which is tapered at the start, then quickly slightly broader. It then becomes snowy and very broad. Via this clear glacial course you reach the summit of Grande Ciamarella. From the bergschrund to the summit takes 1h30 to 2h00.

Grande Ciamarella - Petite Ciamarella traverse

Go back down the snowy ridge via its edge as long as it is broad. A small rocky corridor leaves on the left on the Italian side, go down it 20m until a clear terrace obvious. Follow this terrace in the direction of Petite Ciamarella, when it disappears go up towards the ridge via easy corridors and chimneys (UK-3a /US-5.3). Follow the ridge while remaining mainly on the Italian side as far as the summit of a steep rocky pitch above a notch. Below the ridge, Italian side, rappel (15m) on an overlay to reach this notch. Go up of the other side of the notch via cracks on the French side and the edge of the ridge (UK-4a /US-5.5) on 2 pitches. The ridge then becomes almost horizontal and less difficult. Follow it as far as the summit of Petite Ciamarella. From Grande to Petite Ciamarella takes 2h00 to 3h00.

Descent

From the summit of Petite Ciamarella there are 3 possibilities :

• Return by the uphill route of Petite Ciamarella. Good technical and skiing conditions are necessary.
• From the summit traverse by a mixed ridge to the SW until the pass of Petite Ciamarella (3435m). Descend the pass towards the Cirque des Évettes via a snow slope at 30/35° diagonally towards the left, in the direction of the Muraille d’Italie. Once you arrive on the small glacial basin (3050m, very crevassed terrain at the end of the season), fork towards the N and via a snow slope at 25/30° you reach the plateau under the Petite Ciamarella and to follow the uphill route to the Évettes refuge. From the summit to the refuge takes 2h30 to 3h00.
• Continue the traverse on the Pointe de Chalançon, Muraille d’Italie, Selle d’Albaron and summit of Albaron. Splendid traverse along a clear route (long snowy or mixed ridges without particular difficulties). The descent takes place via the normal route of Albaron. Petite Ciamarella - Pointe de Chalançon, takes 0h45. Pointe de Chalançon - Muraille d’Italie, takes 1h00. Muraille d’Italie - Selle d’Albaron, takes 0h40. Selle - summit of Albaron, takes 0h20. Summit of Albaron - Évettes refuge, takes 3h00.