Classic North face route

Ascent: Reigning in the middle of the Cirque, the north face of the Tour is the queen of the Gavarnie crests. All the routes which travel it deserve a visit. The first of them was discovered by C. Dufourmantelle and J. Ravier on 29 and 30 September 1956.

From the pass of the Tentes, you reach Port de Boucharo, skirt the broad northern wall of Taillon, go past the pass of Sarradets and you reach the Sarradets refuge. Time 1h30. Via a traverse towards the east at the level of the Sarradets refuge, you reach the foot of the north face. Add 1h to reach the start.

The route goes up the large clear dihedral in the middle of the face and continues with an oblique traverse to the right. Traverse a chimney in line with the large dihedral (UK-4a /US-5.5). Go up it for 40 metres (UK-5b /US-5.10a). Continue on a few metres and traverse on completely on the left to reach a chimney that is climbed (UK-5b /US-5.10a). Continue on the right via a large crack (UK-5c /US-5.10c physical) to establish the belay in the dihedral on the right. Cross it and you end up on Bouclier (V +). Traverse a few metres on the right and reach a ledge above (IV +). Follow it on the right side and cross a small steep pitch (IV+). Via a broad chimney, you arrive at the foot of an internal chimney. Go into it and climb it to emerge in a not very steep area ascending on the right (UK-4a /US-5.5). Belay to the foot of a small wet dihedral that is climbed on the right (UK-5a /US-5.8). Continue by a cornice which widens increasingly. A final wall giving access to the summit plateau is crossed via a small dihedral slightly on the left (UK-4a /US-5.5). It takes 4 to 5h from the start to the route summit.

Bibliography: - R. Munsch, C. Ravier, R. Thivel, Passages Pyrénéens, Editions du Pin à Crochets

Descent: From the summit, descend in the southern pass, go around the Casque, reach Brèche de Roland and the Sarradets refuge. Time 1h30.