Grandes suites - Beauregard - Harmonie

Classic route on the Grande Suites above the Lac of Annecy, homogeneous in F6a/6a+.

Approach # 20min

The approach is that of the Dalle Rousse, to the right of the big roofs and overhangs. From the parking, follow the footpath to the “Col de Bluffy” (sign says “Chemin de la Merle” & “Mont Baret”). Leave the footpath on your right (go left) after some 100m of elevation gain. Follow the edge of a meadow and then turn left immediatly (quicker) or further on (cairn, going is easier). Before reaching the overhangs, follow the path that goes to the right towards the single pitch (learning) area.

!!! The usual footpath for the Grandes Suites is closed due to the construction of rockfall protection but there is an alternative footpath starting some 500m to the N on the same street (38 route de la Corniche, gps: 45°53’43.7”N 6°11’04.1”E). Go up along a small stream, between two houses, until you reach a fence. Go round the fence (on the right) and follow a path up and right until you reach the usual footpath and gain the foot of the cliff. The start to Harmonie is at the S end, where the overhangs finish.

Route

The general line is up to the right until L5 and then left and up (L6-7).

L#|5b/c| 35m| Go up on of the single pithc lines at the foot of the cliff and reach the large (forested ledge). Belay on the extreme left, next to a tree (also the left end of a metal cable)

L#| 5c| 25m| Go over the overhang and up and right on the slab to the belay.

L#|5c |15m| Overcome a steep wall up to a wide horizontal crack. Traverse below the crack to the belay on a ledge, next to a dying pine tree. L2 and L3 can be done in a single pitch with a 50m rope if you take care to use long draws.

L#|6a| 35m | Go up the slab until you get close to a small overhang, and then to right for 5m to reach the belay (narrow ledge).

L# | 6a+| 40m | Go up and right on a splendid slab and then across a large flake towards the belay.

L# | 6a+| 35m | Overcome the overhang and then go left up a dihedral to the belay (ledge).

L#| 6a | 35m |Up the slab and then a small overhang (can be ovoided by following the golden bolts on the right). Belay is in the trees above the cliff.

Descent

From the summit, follow the trail to the left (N) until you reach a cairn and blue cord. Turn left and follow the cairns to a cable. Follow the cable to reach the first rappel station, on a tree. Four rappels take you to the bottom.

• Sun hits the cliff at mid-morning.