Autrichiens - Les Courtes - Mont-Blanc - France

Autrichiens

Min / max altitude2760m / 3856m
Duration4 hours 24 minutes
Main facingN
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required
GearTechnical ice axes, some ice screws. Snow flukes (deadman) may be very useful for making belays in bad snow, selection of nuts, slings and pitons. In winter skis can be welcome way to finish off the day via a descent to Argentière or via the NE slope of Courtes. Snow safety kit: Beeper, shovel and probe.
Source

Details

Approach # 1h00 to 1h30

From the, descend on the glacier and traverse it towards the south in the direction of the north face of Courtes.

Ascent # 3h30 to 7h00

Cross the bergschrund on the left and go up the snow slope to reach the corridor just to the right of the NNE spur of Courtes. Go up steep pitches towards the right by passing 2 small ridges to follow the snow corridor. The corridor widens and goes towards the left in the direction of a red tower on the NNE spur. Do not go to the spur but just before pull to the right in a steep ice gully which emerges on a beautiful snow slope, under a beautiful snowy ridge. You reach this ridge by ascending on the left and on its extension to reach the summit. The face is exposed NNE, so it is imperative to leave very early.

Descent # 1h30 to 4h00 depending on the conditions

From the summit of Courtes, traverse towards the SE in the direction of the corridor of the NE slope of Courtes. The descent of the NE slope despite its maximum 50° slope requires a great deal of care. The least lack of attention can be drastic.(a little equipment in-situ on the banks, but not continuous!) Check on the snow conditions on the slope (different orientation from the ascent route) and the frost quality of the snow, the slope gets the sun early in the morning. If the bergschrund is too open, at the bottom of the slope pull to the left bank until the rocks (rappel in-situ; check its conditions! ).

From there to find your skis for the descent to Argentière.

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