Magie d'Orient

Approach: 50mins

Starting from the Envers hut, cross the boulders and snowfields under the “Pointe des Nantillons” towards the ‘l’Envers de Blaitière’ glacier which ascends to the SW. Pass by an outcrop, flanking round to the left to come to the base of the tower (30 to 40mins, crampons may be useful). The start of the route can be found to the left of a gully, at a large 40m slab. The start is in common with “Occidentale Serenade”, (which breaks off leftwards,) and to the left of “Opium de Peuple”, which follows a line of bolts up the slab.

Route

L# | | | Start either on an overhang on the right (6a) or on the left (5c) then belay on a ledge, B1. L# | | | Continue to the left on a ramp (sloping left to right), B2 on the ramp. L# | | | Turn a wall on the right (4c) B3 on a ledge. L# | | | Traverse to the left, B4 above the edges (just above this is a belay point for Opium du Peuple). L# | | | Nice crack (5c), B5 in a niche. L# | | | Continue on a slab to the left (5c), B6 on the slab. L# | | | Follow the cracks in the slabs on the left to B7 which is 4m below the summit of the first tower.

To gain the second tower, descend to a ledge well on the right, (50m abseil, last part free hanging,) Go to the crack on the right (not many slings etc to guide you). On the left is the start of the last three pitches of “Occidentale Serenade” and further left still that of “l’Opium du Peuple”. The summit of the second tower is reached in a three pitches, the first being the hardest.

Descent

From the summit of the first tower: either abseil down the route, or better make two short abseils (<25m) down “Opium de Peuple, then two longer ones still on Opium de Peuple to reach the big ledge at mid height. From here make three abseils down Magie d’Orient.

From the second tower : make four abseils down to first tower and with an awkward pendulum abseil across the snow to reach the edge of the first tower which leads down to the ledge of the 3rd belay (B3). Continue by abseiling down the route.