N face

Approach

From Torino hut

Cross the Col des Flambeaux - NW, 3407m – then descend diagonally to the NW under the Aiguilles de Toules and traverse to the foot of the face.

From the Aiguille du Midi

Descend the classic Vallée Blanche via the Col du Gros Rognon, pass under the Pointe Adolphe Rey and so to the foot of the face.

Route

Choose what you think is the best line up the face of snow or ice. The angle is consistently between 45° and 50°, with one pitch of 60° or more. At half way, get past the narrows by going to the right. Go around the final rocks to the left to exit the face onto a thin, combed ridge leading towards the summit. Descend several metres and go around the rocks, on snow on the E side, to reach the summit via some small steps, (mixed, easy, II.)

Descent

By the normal route (E face) or the SE ridge, depending upon conditions.