S Ridge (Normal Route)

Approach # (See route to the Dent Blanche hut)

Route

Above the Cabane de la Dent Blanche, go up the right side of the rock ridge, (start at the ladders which arrive at the hut and then some cairns). Then stay on the ridge, exposed but easy II. Continue up the snowy section of the ridge to the Wandfluelücke (3703m). Go up snow and some rocks with scree obliquely to the left to a first tower on the S ridge (3882m). Follow the snow slopes on the W face and rejoin the ridge at the foot of the Grand Gendarme. Traverse to the left for about 40m. From here there are two options :

1. Climb the W face of the Grand Gendarme (3 pitches 4b, some pegs, make your own belays).
2. Continue to traverse for 20m and regain the ridge above the Gendarme by gully (snow or rock). 3 large belay stakes at 20m intervals.

For the pinnacles that follow :

• 1^st pinnacle initially direct, a little to the left near the top.
• 2^st pinnacle climb direct
• 3^rd pinnacle slightly to the right
• 4^th pinnacle climb direct.
• For the last pinnacle, traverse to the left on slabs (pegs and bolts) for about 50m then rejoin the ridge by a step section 3b and a rock gully, bolts.

Now follow the ridge which broadens and eases, or on its W flank, to the summit.

Descent

By climbing down the same route, going to the right of the Grand Gendarme Belays in place for some abseiling, especially useful in snowy conditions. 40m rope suffices.