Ridge traverse

Access to the “Double Breche”

This ridge traverse (usually done N to S) starts near a pair of notches or breaks in the ridge, called the Double Breche (English: Double Break) - (latitude/longitude ~ N45.0326 E5.5922).

From the parking at Les Glovettes]] (altitude 1160m) (GPS latitude/longitude ~ N45.0525 E5.5620). start roughly ESE on a wide road. After less than 50m, bear Left onto a wide trail and go uphill E – follow the markings for GR in the direction of Bergerie de la Fauge and the Pas de l’Oeille. After about 800m the trail hits a wide road at intersection “l’Aversin” (alt 1330m) - (It is also possible to reach this point from parking at [[waypoints/110553|Les Clots). Turn S and go about 300m flat to intersection “La Cote” (alt 1330m), then turn left onto a trail, and with some downhill sections go about 650m ESE then E then SE to another road at intersection “Abri de la Fauge” (alt 1310m - stone hut 100m to SW). Bear R on road and go SE about 200m uphill. Before reaching the top of the hill there is a fork to a side road.

From this point, the next objective is to reach a wide track that goes S across a big field of grass. Three options: (a) The long way is continue on the main road another 130m E to the top of the hill until reach a barb-wire fence. Pass thru gate and turn R onto the wide track and go S about 800m gently downhill to the bottom of the Combe Charbonniere. (b) The official trail avoids the gate (and potential muddy section and most of potential wet grass): Take the R fork onto side road and go up 130m E to hit a barb-wire fence. Then turn R and go S along the W side of fence on a narrow trail, and after the fence ends look for the easiest (least muddy?) way to cross SE from the narrow trail to the wide track S thru the open field about 600m to bottom of Combe Charbonniere. (c) The shortest way (if the grass is dry): Leave both roads and go toward R on grass (no track as of 2013) gently uphill to SE about 130m, then bear L and go S about 50m in an obvious way downhill under trees, then bear L onto big field of grass and go 60m flat on SE to reach the wide track. Bear R on that and go S flat 350m.

Next continue between large trees onto a trail which curves L and climbs SE up the Combe Charbonierre for about 1000m – soon through a cattle gate – last 250m E or NE on scree/talus … Plainly visible ahead are the twin notches of the Double Breche and the narrow gully leading up to it. Meet a roughly horizontal trail (which traverses between Col Vert and Pas de l’Oeille). Turn R to go uphill S toward Pas de l’Oeille. After about 150m, turn L to leave the trail and head roughly E up steep scree to the base of the narrow gully / chimney / couloir.

Climb the narrow gully (much loose rock), soon a section (often wet, sometimes even icy) at difficulty 3 with fixed rope/sling hanging for aid (fixed protection 2 pitons below, 1-bolt anchor), then soon another steep move. Higher up the gully widens (still much loose rock), and the obvious track leads up to another steep 10m section of difficulty 3 (1-bolt anchor above). Above continues steep with grass. It is easier if leave the gully before reaching the top of the Double Breche: turn right (S) on an obvious track for 50m, climb over a sub-ridge, then choose an area (in the next 50-75m of traversing toward S) to climb E up thru grass and rocks to finally reach the ridge. (The bolt anchors of this gully might perhaps also be used for descending with rappels).

Variation - North Access

. (Use this to avoid of rock-fall or delay from other parties in the narrow gully/chimney/couloir, or if wetness or ice makes it really nasty). . (More complicated navigation than main gully/couloir). . (Some moves of difficulty 3, with at least one modern bolt for protection). . (Much on grassy slopes, sometimes exposed, so attempt this only when dry). . (Detail: for much more detail see this Outing report with GPX track).

From the sign-marked trail junction of Combe Charbonniere (alt 1640m) (GPS latitude/longitude ~ N45.0348 E5.5888) just below a rock wall. Around L end of wall + up 70m NE to another wall (N45.0352 E5.5894). Traverse R horizontal 70m S to a rock-slide gully (N45.0345 E5.5893). Up 30m ENE, then diag R 70m SSE, then up 30m ENE to wide gentle grass platform (N45.0342 E5.5902) below rock. L 15m N then up 40m E to cirque (N45.0344 E5.5907).

Steep exit R in narrow gully with at least one new bolt (N45.0343 E5.5908) as of 2016, then further steep R, total 40m SE. Traverse 15m N into center of mini-valley then up 25m E. Exit the mini-valley diagonal R 100m S to small col (N45.0335 E5.5913), down + up 30m S to another small col. Down + traverse 70m S to meet (N45.0327 E5.5916) the obvious track coming up from main couloir. Up this toward the Double Breche for only 15-20m E, then turn off R onto another track which goes S up to the crest of the main Aretes du Gerbier ridge traverse.

Traverse of the ridge N->S from the “Double Breche”

As you follow the line of the ridge going South, it presents some sections delicate or impressive: le Rasoir, le Peigne, and some others which could be rated up to 3c. Some difficulties could be avoided by going more on the W side of the ridge. Later you reach the Gerbier summit (alt 2109m) by a section sufficiently airy and esthetic, on smooth rock (fixed protection 2 bolts).

Continue following the ridge until hit a place where the end drops off vertically. From here there are three options: - down-climb to SE, then turn SW squeezing under a little roof (fixed protection 1 piton above/before the roof); or - rappel 23m directly from end of ridge (anchor is rings with one sling); or - down-climb toward W to find a rappel of 15m (two possible anchors: two pitons with a big ring, or a chain).

Then hike roughly W down a steep grass/gravel slope to meet the trail which leads to the Pas de l’Oeille from Villard de Lans. Go N on that trail about 1000m, then turn left and go down Combe Charbonierre, and return to Villard de Lans by the route of approach.