Bienvenue au Georges V

Approach

From the hut, traverse the Envers de Blatiere glacier to the foot of the route, which is on the right side of the spur coming down from the Pointe.

Route

L# | 6a+ | | Gain a first ledge by going to the left or directly up a nice crack at 5c+. From the ledge, go straight up the crack, delicate to start, bolt. L# | 5c | | Thin crack, sloping first to the right then to the left, belay on a ledge on the left. L# | 6a | | Short leftwards traverse then more easily straight up to a short, steep section, with cracks, fairly difficult. L# | 6a+ | | Gain a thin crack in the middle of a slab/pillar, superb. L# | 5b | | Take a chimney on the left. L# | 6a | | Short, delicate passage to the left then an easy crack. Belay at the top to the right. L# | 6a | | Climb a large flake, traverse to the right then a little rock fang to the right to climb straight up on compact rock with thin flakes, superb. L# | 5c+ | | A slab to the right then straight up, then slightly to the left. L# | 6a | | Climb up leftwards to gain a little corner, steepish but easy. L# | 6a | | Gain a little, slabby spur to the right, climb it, (with a bold section) to a gap, belay 5m above. L# | 5c | | Climb a little shoulder (bolts) then go slightly to the left. L# | 5c | | Get into the corner on the right, (airy,) escaping on the left by a chimney, up a ledge until a short, wide crack which leads to a last slab in the line of the spur.

The route is not too difficult to follow. (See also the description in the new guidebook.)

Descent

Abseil down the route, taking care not to snag the rope on the flakes in the middle section.