Voie Originale de l'Y

Approach

From the Solalex parking, cross the torrent by a footbridge and ascend a steep path to the foot of the route. A bolt and a plaque with the route’s name mark the start.

Route

L# | 3a | Corner crack sloping to the left. No bolts. Belay high up. L# | 5a | Start leftwards, then right to a ledge. L# | 2 | From the belay, follow the rising ledge to the right for about 50m and the belay slightly hidden on the left, before the Bal des Mutants belay and several metres above, (climbing in some boulders.) L# | 5c+ | Or 4a with 2 aid points. A steep start on large but polished holds followed by a thin slab. Then more easily up a rising traverse to the left. L# | 5a+ | A nice, sustained pitch L# | 3c | With a little steep corner with flakes, not obvious L# | 3c |
L# | 3b |
L# | 3c | Shares the belay with Bal des Mutants L# | 4 | Follow the large crack which traverses the « Miroir », rising to the right L# | 4a |
L# | 4a |
L# | 4a | The end of this pitch is shared with the « Directe » L# | 4a | Traverse to the left under the final rock barrier to exit to the gap by a short, easy wall.

Descent

Traverse to the left and either by a stony gully or a pitch of 5c/6a, gain the summit of the Haute Corde. From the summit of the Haute Corde, follow the East ridge then a path down grassy slopes to Anzeindaz then Solalex. You can avoid the summit of the Haute Corde by not going up the gully but by staying on a small but well marked path, occasionally exposed, which leads to the col de la Poreyrette. From there either descend either as above or directly to Solalex by the Poreyrette ravine: shorter but more tedious, especially after rain.