Standard ascent - Grandes Jorasses - Pointe Walker - Mont-Blanc - Italy
Length5087m
Min / max altitude1580m / 4208m
Main facingSW
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required
Snowboarding possible
Gear- Corde de 50m (rappels de 25m)
Source

Details

Approach`

From the parking at Planpincieux to the Boccalatte hut.

Route

From the Boccalatte hut, go up to the N to reach the Planpincieux glacier. Climb up it, keeping below the Rognon de la Bouteille. After an area of large crevasses, reach the base of the Reposoir spur. Start by a ramp to the right and take the easiest line along the crest, (3b/c.) Cross a broad, steep and exposed couloir, (Whymper couloir, exposed to avalanche/ rock and ice falls,) towards a rocky corner on the ridge which descends from the Pointe Whymper. Climb the corner (3b).

From here, there are 3 possibilities:

  1. Follow the rocky ridge, (Rochers Whymper,) to the summit of the Pointe Whymper (4184m). Then go to the right to reach the Pointe Walker (4208m).
  2. Go up the snow couloir (45-50°) to the right of the ridge coming down from the Pointe Whymper.
  3. (The traditional route) Traverse the glacier plateau under the séracs, (still very unstable since a large collapse in 2001,) then go up the ridge, (mixed,) leading to the Pointe Walker (summit).

Descent

From the Pointe Walker go down the (Walker) ridge (option 3), mixed. Pass under the seracs to reach the Whymper ridge. Descend the corner, (abseil), then follow the way up in reverse to the hut.

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