Normal route from Klein Matterhorn - Gandegghütte - Valais W - Pennine Alps W - Switzerland
Normal route from Klein Matterhorn

Normal route from Klein Matterhorn

Min / max altitude3795m / 4164m
Main facingW
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required
Lift approach
Source

Details

Approach.

Take the lift system to the Kleine Matterhorn station

Route # 1h30

From the station, go to point 3795m and traverse the Breithorn plateau (about 3800m) curving around ENE to the foot of the S face. Cross the bergschrund and go up from right to left to reach the W ridge, which you follow to the summit,(4164m) (From the Testa Grigia, count on 2h30)

Descent

Several options: e.g. 1. By the ascent route 2. By traversing the summit: descend the exposed E ridge to the col 4135m between the W and central summits From the col, make a return trip to the central and E summits (4159m) by a corniced ridge. A good 30mins for the return trip. Once back at the col, go to the Breithorn plateau by the S face to rejoin the ascent route.

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