Left route

Ascent: Very beautiful snow climb, well travelled at the beginning of the season, more difficult than its neighbour Albaron, with a splendid view of the entire glacial bowl of the Évettes.

Day 1: Climb to the Évettes refuge: After the Ecot parking lot (2020m) take the well marked way which goes up the south slope via large bends. After going up these large avalanche slopes a large traverse to the left leads you to a small herbish flat spot. The way is divided into 2, a path traverses and easily climbs to the refuge while the second directly climbs the slope above, reaching a broad dale and to the refuge via a traverse to the east. From Ecot to the refuge takes 1h15 to 2h00.

Day 2: Go back down the flat spot under the Refuge and head for the Évettes glacier. Once on the glacier go up the first slope often in ice (25°) then traverse diagonally to the left (towards the right bank of the glacier) to avoid a slightly threatening serac area. Via snow slopes at 30° it is easy to reach the higher dish of the glacier. Head south-east for the glacier which climbs to the Tonini pass just to the left of the summit of Petite Ciamarella. A beautiful snow slope starts up on your right, go up it (35°) until a transverse crevasse bars the way. Via a large diagonal to the right (35°, 30° then 45°) go up in the direction of the summit until under the summit steep pitch. This steep pitch is very steep and can be barred by a bergschrund later in the season. Cross it and climb a short but steep corridor (45/50°) which leads to a notch under the summit.

From the refuge to the summit takes 3h00 to 4h30.

Bibliography: - Les 100 plus belles Vanoise by C.Maly. - Alpinisme Vanoise Haute Maurienne by P.Col.

Descent: From the summit there are 2 possibilities for the descent: -Return by the uphill route. Good technical and skiing conditions are necessary. -From the summit traverse by a mixed ridge to the east until the pass of Petite Ciamarella (3435m). Descend the pass towards the Cirque des Évettes via a snow slope at 30/35° diagonally towards the left, in the direction of the Muraille d’Italie. Once you arrive on the small glacial basin (3050m, very crevassed terrain at the end of the season), fork towards the north and via a snow slope at 25/30° you reach the plateau under the Petite Ciamarella and to follow the uphill route to the Évettes refuge. From the summit to the refuge takes 2h30 to 3h00.