Normal route (WNW spur)

Approach

From the Couvercle hut follow the path which traverses obliquely to the top of some fixed ropes which allow you to descend onto the Talèfre glacier. Go up this on the true right bank and along the Jardin de Talèfre. After having passed under the Col des Droites, go up the snow slopes, under the les Courtes, always in the direction of the Pointe Isabelle.

Route

Access to the plateau at about 3350m

After passing under the Col des Cristaux, and under the Aiguilles Ravanel et Mummery there are two options: 1. In good snow conditions, (crevasses filled) one can go up the glacier without problems, mainly on the true right bank, to reach the plateau. 2. When there is not a lot of snow an enormous crevasse prevents access to the plateau. In which case it is necessary to go along the true right bank of the Courtes glacier keeping as close as possible to some rocks, (very exposed to seracs,) until you come up to a steep wall of ice. From here take an easy, rocky ledge to the left to reach the plateau.

Final part of the route

Cross the plateau (3400m), going due S to gain a snowy ridge. Climb this ridge (30°) to reach a rock step. Climb this by easy rocks for about 60m. Climb up a thin, snowy and exposed ridge (35°) which leads to the upper slopes. Go up these slopes to just below the summit. Cross the bergschrund on the left and climb the easy rocks (II - 30m) to the summit.

Descent

By the same route. Possible to make an abseil (20-25m) from the summit.