Aiguille d'Argentière - West flank and NW Ridge (Whymper route)

Historic route, replaced by the glacier du Mileu]

Route

Follow the itinerary for the ‘Col du Chardonnet’ until a plateau at 3050m. Loop around to the right towards the upper Chardonnet glacier. Climb this glacier to its bergschrund (~3500m, can be awkward) then follow the most obvious gully (“Couloir en X”), that gives access to the NW ridge of Aiguille d’Argentière at around 3650m. Follow this ridge to a rocky outcrop around 3750m. Go onto the N face and climb a large steep slope (often icy unfortunately) which gives access to the W summit of the Aiguille d’Argentière.

Descent

By the same route (two 50m abseils down the ice slope and another abseil over the bergschrund), or by the ‘glacier du Milieu’.

• N facing all the way up to the summit ridge, then W.

• 45° for 150m in the relatively narrow gully under the NW ridge then 45° for 100m on the N face.