From Pré de Mme Carle - Bosse de la Momie - Écrins - France

From Pré de Mme Carle

Length14731m
Min / max altitude1874m / 3089m
Duration6 hours 21 minutes
Main facingSW
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required
GearNormal crevassed glacier equipment, ice axe and crampons, stoves and bedding for the Cézanne refuge.
Source

Details

If the road is not open until Pré de Madame Carle, start by following it cutting across some bends until the meadow. Pass the Cézanne refuge, go up not far from the torrent of Glacier Noir if the snow cover is sufficient, if not on the right bank with slight overhanging wall (do not climb too high). These slopes on the right bank are very exposed to avalanches in the event of spells of milder weather or in the event of strong snowfalls, coming from the northern side of Bosse de la Momie. You reach the Glacier Noir, go up it to 2400 m. You will be in front of the junction of both branches of the glacier. Go up the S branch which leads to Col de la Temple passing the foot large N faces (Pelvoux, Pic Sans Nom, Ailefroide): a northern facing steep slope, to the east of a rocky Rognon, leads to the higher flat area around 2520 m.(route well marked on the IGN map). It takes 2 and a half hours from the entrance to Pré de Madame Carle. Then skirt a rock band and go towards the SE via a turning movement, leave the Glacier Noir around 2600 m., passing just to the N of the N part of the arm of the small glacier N of Pelvoux, which is no longer named on recent IGN maps. Climb a steep slope to the N of the ridge which descends to the SW of Bosse de la Momie, you emerge in a small less steep scoop and reach spot elevation 3054 m. (no longer on recent IGN editions) at the bottom of the scoop. The summit (3089 m) is reached on foot. It takes 2 and a half hours from the altitude of 2520 m., 4 and a half hours total. Descent: by the same route. Due to the orientation, the snow transforms rather late in the upper part. S3 section before returning to Glacier Noir. The snow remains good due to the correct conditions of frost in the low part of the glacier, under 2400 m. thanks to the shadow cast by the north face of the Bosse de la Momie. Be careful of the large avalanche corridors on the right bank when arriving above Cézanne.

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