From Rifugio Aosta - Tête de Valpelline - Valais W - Pennine Alps W - Switzerland
Min / max altitude2000m / 3802m
Main facingSW
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required

Details

Steep slopes above the hut. The couloir (80-100 m) to the Col de la Division is a classical alpine coloir, with loose rocks covered by snow and ice. Crampons and axe necessary. Although not so steep it requires attention and energy. We climbed up without rope but we placed 2 fixed ropes going down in the afternoon. Above to Col de la Division move on the left of the Tsa de Tsan glacier and then to the col between Tete Blanche and Tete de Valpelline. Turn S and by gentle slopes on the top. Consider 4-5 hours depending on the mountain conditions. An ashtonishing view of the W face of Matterhorn and Dent d’ Herens makes the Tete of Valpelline a rewarding summit. Unfortunalty is also an unofficial drop summit for heliski.

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