
Details
Approach # 1h30
As for Les Marmottons]. The route start, indicated by a metal plaque, is further to the right from Les Marmottons (common start with Black Yack).
Route
L#1 | 4a | Climb the face and then go to the right on the grassy steps. Belay. L#2 | 5b | The bolts straight up are another route (Black Yack). El Condor continues on the face 5m to the right. Climb it to a ledge, traverse to the right, climb along the edge and traverse to the left. Belay. L#3 | 5a | Climb the face. Short pitch. L#4 | 5a | Climb to the top of the gendarme and come across to the main side with a long step, well protected (l’Enjambée). Climb a dihedral and a slab. Belay. L#5 | 4a | Short grassy dihedral.
L#6 | 4c | Slabs then a vertical face with good holds. Belay near a detached big rock. L#7 | 5a | Start on the right from the detached rock. Climb a slab, then exit to a grassy ledge. Belay. L#8 | Optional | Climb easy step to a more comfortable ledge. No protection on this pitch. (Belay possible with slings through rock tunnels.)
Descent # 1h30
4 abseils along the route. First descend to the top of P6 (40m), then to the top of P4, and finally to the top of P2. From there one can abseil vertically to the beginning of the route (50m).
An excellent easy route on good rock.

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