Calanques - Sugiton - Aiguille de Sugiton - Super Veteran

Approach

same as for La Directe].

Climb

Start: on 15-20 meter high buttress with a right-facing corner with wide crack in its midst. To the left of l’Urssaf + l’ANPE.

L# | 5b+ | Up the obvious wide crack to the top of the buttress - (be prepared to disconnect backpack in order to squeeze into chimney. L# | 5b | Up the long right-slanting groove.

Descent / Return

Not sure what is best. One option to try might be to go up north along along the crest of the ridge about 15-30 meters to reach a rappel station with two bolts about 75 cm apart nearly horizontal. Rappel from there to bottom of cliff: more than 50 meters but less than 60 meters. For other ideas, see the description for La Directe].

Some people think this climb is forgettable, others think it is excellent. Perhaps it depends on: (a) If you are good at technique for narrow chimneys; (b) If you like climbing a narrow chimney. Because the first pitch is all about chimney.

Two modern guidebooks rate the first pitch 4c, but this makes no sense. Back sixty years ago in the days of Georges Livanos, most climbers got lots of practice climbing chimneys, and were good at the techniques required. But unless you are actually well-practiced with chimney technique, the first pitch might seem even harder than 5b+ (Even before getting into the chimney there is a move harder than 4c).