Mischabeljochbiwak SAC - From Täschalp - Mischabeljochbiwak SAC - Switzerland
Min / max altitude2210m / 3874m
Duration1 day
Main facingW
Route typetraverse
Glacier gear required

From Täschalp, a steep, but well marked path leads up to a lake at 3060m under the Alphubel (Weingartensee). Identify a rock band to the left of Pte 3481m.

Climb this rock band by zig-zagging up a system of ledges and gullies, (II/III max, technically easy but difficult to find the best line, especially in descent, cairns and abseil slings all over the place.) Above the band, get easily onto the Weingarten glacier at about 3470m. Go up the true left bank, then the centre until an obvious col, Mischabeljoch (3850m), and the three star bivouac hut. The start of the glacier is very crevassed but not too steep, higher up it is nearly flat and fewer crevasses.

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