Falaise de Miéville - Schproum

Access

From the parking for Mieville, walk straight across the avalanche path and follow the small track on the right towards the base of the route. The route starts at a characteristic corner that splits the entire wall. It is the first route on the right that is bolted. The first pitch starts at a chimney on bright rock narrowing to a long crack.

Climbing

L# | 6b+ | 40m | A short section of chimney climbing followed by superb crack climbing (slightly overhanging) with lots of Duelfer moves on big holds. Very compact rock. L# | 7a | 35m | From the belay trend diagonally right (do not follow the crack upwards (-> Lapin dix) nor horizontal to the right (-> Tel l’eclair)). Sustained face climbing on crimps with the crux at the very end. Caution is required for feet placements as there are a lot of shale-like rock formations. On the easy side of the grade. L# | 6c | 15m | Short pitch up a chimney straight above the belay (not left -> Lapin dix). Take an extendable quickdraw to reduce rope drag at the second bolt. L# | 6c | 40m | Continue easy ground above the belay for 10m, then turn right onto the face and continue in Duelfer style. A small bush is hiding one of the bolts, use the extendable quickdraw.

Descent

From the summit, take the usual trail towards the main path that leads all the way back to the parking.

• Each pitch has very characteristic climbing. Crack, face and chimney climbing on overall solid rock. The grades above reflect the rating in the Remy guidebook. All pitches are sustained good climbing (no bloc moves).
• P3 might have some wet sections in the chimney. Better to wait a few days for it to dry after recent rain.