Cogne - Valnontey - Gran Val

Approach

Park the car at the end of the road in Valnontey and follow the footpath along the valley floor. You cross the langlauf track several times (careful!) and pass several signposts indicating the way to other icefalls, “Valmiana”, “Sentiero Dei Troll” and “Sogno di Patagonia”. At the end of the langlauf track, near a bridge, ignore the path leading towards “Patri” and “Acheronte”, instead continue along the true left bank of the river, towards a rock outcrop. Go up the scree/snow slope below this cliff : the icefall is only visible at the last moment, enclosed between the rocks.

Route

P1 40m 2 Bolt belay on the right P1’ 30m Walking P2 60m 3+ 80°, 5m at 85°, bolt belay on the left. P3 60m 3+ 80°, 85° then a narrow passage at 90° (peg) and the exit gully (60°), abalakov belay.

Descent

Abseil